21/6/16
ESPERANCE TO STOKES INLET
We farewelled our awesome host family and headed out of
Esperance for a day of mostly bitumen. We had decided to head for the Stokes
Inlet camgpround about 84 k’s away.
We
made good pace despite a slight head wind and occasional showers. Limited
places for rest stops left us having lunch in a farmer’s gateway, which
actually ended up quite pleasant as it was out of the wind and we had a few
moments of sunshine.
Carrying on we took turns in front to try and preserve our
legs a bit. The climbing became more regular as we were crossing quite regular
small river valleys. Finally, the turn off to Stokes came up on the left and we
headed onto the dirt. It turns out that the 84’ks was just to the park entrance
and the camp site was a further 6k’s on, oh well. We rolled into the park and
scattered several kangaroos and for the first time saw a very large flock of
emus, probably 100+ birds, cool. The camp site was awesome, very nice protected
sites with very new facilities. Water was available and we were the only ones
here. Just on dark the full moon rose over the inlet and was spectacular. It
was also the winter solstice, only gets warmer from here right?
22/6/16
STOKES INLET TO MUNGLINUP BEACH
It was a really cold start to our morning and once on the
bikes the temperature was showing a very low 4 degrees. Once back out on to the
main road we followed the bitumen for about 15k’s with again a head wind.
Today’s head wind made for quite a slow start so we were really quite pleased
to see the turnoff onto the dirt on to Springdale Road. It was awesome fast
riding for a very short lived 7-8 k’s before the road veered right again and we
were back to our friend Mr Head Wind. 
For lunch we found a protected area on a corner of another
dirt road which was out of the wind. Something to eat and a coffee and we were
once again already to face the wind again. Due to this little charmer we
realised that we weren’t going to make our pre-planned destination of
Starvation Bay Camp so decided to head into Munglinup Beach instead. As we
turned off onto the Munglinup Road a sign stated that the beach camp was closed
for renovations. Fortunately, there was the Munglinup Beach Caravan Park about
5 k’s back from the beach. This was going to have to do for tonight. This
turned out to be an absolute little gem. A really quaint little bush caravan
park with brand new amenity block, rustic camp kitchen and open living area.
The people who ran the park were so friendly and helpful as were a few of the
long termers. We picked out a nice little spot on some grass that was very
protected with bushes. We had very limited phone reception here but were able to
at times get internet and after a quick look at Willy Weather saw that tomorrow
was not looking very good for riding at all. Those head winds were going to be
stronger and with rain so there and then we called for a day off.
A nice hot shower and dinner in our bellies we were all set
for a good night’s sleep. During the night the winds picked up to gale force
and the heavens opened up with long heavy showers of rain. The tent held up
really well and at no time did we feel worried.
23/6/16
Rest Day at MUNGLINUP BEACH
In the morning you could see how much rain we had as there
were large puddles everywhere and huge puddles under some of the permanent
vans. Apparently we had between 30-40mm of rain, and the winds kept up really
strong most of the night and were still very present when we awoke.
We were up and having breakfast in the camp kitchen when one
of the friendly blokes that sort of works and lives there offered us an old 4WD
to take down to the beach so we could have a look around. How kind is that. We
really love the casualness and friendless of these awesome people. After breaky
we took up his offer and headed down to the beach for a look around. The tide
was well and truly up as there was no beach. Looking out you could see a reef
and usually this bay is really quite calm but not today she was as wild as
ever. We then drove back onto the dirt road and turned down a sand track that
took us up to a lookout. Here you could see the ocean and the large inlet from
the lake feeding into the sea. It was full of birds, a huge flock of pelicans
and all sorts of other water birds. It looked like an amazing area for birds to
breed as we are sure that the inlet was full of all sorts of fish.
24/6/16
MUNGLINUP BEACH TO MASONS BAY
All dirt road again today with rolling hills all day through
small river valleys. Such picturesque views of native flora, views to the
coast, beaches and lakes. Head wind was again with us today until we turned
down Masons Bay Road where she pushed us fast into the campground. We arrived
first seeing the brand new toilet facilities and designated camping areas all
looking amazing. Down on the lower level, right by the natural bush that lined
the beach was another row of camping spots. This was just so beautiful. Here
the bush literally met the sea. The bay was very pretty with lots of bird life
on the beach and sitting out on rocks close to shore. There were even ducks
sitting out on a couple of the rocks and a wedgie flying by. He decided he
liked the look of Dave and circled numerous times right above him. How amazing
to see a Wedge tail eagle at the beach. 
We set up camp in a lovely quiet corner of the lower section
of the campground right near the beach overlooking the ocean. Perfect spot. We
had neighbours down the other end of the campground and nobody else here at
all. They were lovely people and invited us to share their fire before dinner
so we all had a great chat. Dinner was cooked in the dark and then we just
crashed out listening to the calming sound of the ocean. 
25/6/16
MASONS BAY TO HOPETOUN
We were sad to leave this little bay as it was just so
pretty and would have had loved to have spent another day exploring the beach
and surrounds but we were getting low on water. Unfortunately there was no water available up at the new
toilet facilities so we weren’t able to top up our supply. We rode out of the
bay and back onto the main dirt road and headed towards Hopetoun. The wind
again wasn’t our friend and with quite a few hills popping up made for a slow
ride in. The last 10k’s into town was on bitumen following the coast which
provided us with some really spectacular views of the ocean. Here we had wild,
raw ocean on our left and an enormous lake that was full to the brim on our
right.
Once in town first stop coffee shop. We sat upstairs right
by a large window overlooking the ocean and enjoyed a really nice coffee and
some lunch. Next stop caravan park which was all set in a bush setting. The guy
looking after the park found us a nice quiet spot that was protected from the
wind. Third stop IGA. A few supplies were needed to top up our food bag for the
next few days. After repacking our gear it was time to head to the local pub
and catch up on some computer stuff and have some dinner.
26/6/16
HOPETOUN TO R&T EBERT’S FARM
We got up early and while I started to pack up the tent Dave
headed down to the main street to the bakery to grab some fresh bread. Oh yum
freshly baked wholegrain bread for brekky. The bread was straight out of the
oven and still hot when he returned with it. Today we had planned to ride out
through the Fitzgerald River National Park via a dirt road that would take us
all the way up to the main road between Ravensthorpe and Jerramungup.
Unfortunately, Dave found out while speaking to a local at the bakery that all
the dirt roads had been closed. National Park Rangers close the dirt roads in
the parks after heavy rain to help prevent the spread of ‘Die back’. This
policy has been working really well as the park has only a few very small patches
of Die back in it. Here our plans now had to change, we were going to have to
ride the bitumen into Ravensthorpe instead.
Once all packed up we headed off but of course couldn’t just
ride past the café so we stopped for a Sunday morning coffee. We got talking to
two lovely couples, Rod & Tracey and Andrew & Sandrea, local farmers
who had been staying down in town for the weekend. We got chatting and they
assured us that we needed to see the Fitzgerald River Park regardless, and
insisted on either lending us their ute or taking us out there to show us
around. We were a bit stunned, but really wanted to see the park. One of our
goals on this trip is to be open to serendipity when it happens, so we went
with it. We had a great day, that ended up with Andrew and Sandrea taking our
bikes back to Rod and Tracey’s place where they put us up for the night and
made us an awesome dinner. Further to that Andrew and Sandria offered to put us
up at their place in Albany for a few nights when we arrive in a week or so. Amazing
hospitality from some very cool people, we are so grateful.
27/6/16
R&T EBERT’S FARM TO JERRAMUNGUP
After a lovely sleep in a nice comfy bed, porridge and toast
for brekky we said farewell to Tracey. Rod drove us up to the Main Road in the
ute and helped us load our gear back onto the bikes before we set off once
again. So cool meeting new people and making lovely new friends.
The road to Jerramungup was all bitumen, rolling hills and river
valleys to cross and today we had a nice gentle tail breeze to make the job
that bit sweeter. However, the last 10k’s the wind swung around and became a
head wind and the rolling hills became steeper making it a slower entry into
the town.
At the caravan park we met a group of young guys who were
travelling back to Melbourne. Three of them had flown over to help their mate
drive back after having been working on an Adventure Playground at Dwellingup. They
were all really interested in our story and became very inspired by what we
have achieved so far. One of the guys is now really keen to get a bike and
cycle through Japan. It is really awesome to be able to share our story with
others and inspire others to create a dream too.
28/6/16
JERRAMUNGUP TO ONGERUP
an early start when it’s so cozy in our tent. The park had a good camp kitchen which always
makes it a bit easier to get going and we started on our shortish day to
Ongerup (41ks). We had a head wind, but managed to keep pushing into it, taking
turns on the front. Rolling through very open farm land, there was very little
protection from the scrub, but we made reasonable time and got to Ongerup in
time to go to the Mallee Fowl Visitor Centre for some lunch. The only place to
eat in town, but it was nice. We headed over to the tiny little caravan park to
camp, but as we were setting up, the manager came over to us and insisted that
the weather was getting bad tonight and that she wouldn’t be able to sleep
tonight if we were in a tent (we would have been fine). She insisted that we
stay in the bunk house for the night that had a very nice camp kitchen and a
roaring combustion heater. Serendipity again. The weather never did turn that
bad, haahahha.
29/6/16
ONGERUP TO STIRLING RANGES
The morning started off tough with a head wind. Wind always
has and always will get into my head.
Before too long we were making up all sorts of weird and wonderful UP names.
Silly names that you had to be there to actually enjoy.
Around lunch time we were just coming into a little town
called Borden and saw a ‘Café’ sign. Hopes were high and once we arrived and
stepped inside were quickly deflated. Not much in this shop/café/post office.
We did order a pretty average coffee and supplied our own biscuit to go with
it.
Next hopeful stop was the Dutch Windmill near Amelup.
Unfortunately, this little place doesn’t have a café anymore. Next stop Amelup.
Here was only a Roadhouse not offering anything really exciting.
It wasn’t too long before we came into the entrance of the
Stirling Ranges. Such a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains as we
approached. Tonight we stayed at the Stirling Ranges Retreat in the Caravan
Park area. There were only 2 other campers camping out in the park which was in
a beautiful bush setting. We set up our tent in a nice quiet and protected spot
before cooking our dinner in a lovely big camp kitchen and then retiring early
to bed. While cooking dinner we met a lovely gentleman by the name of Bill, a
very keen photographer who comes up and camps at the Stirling Ranges a couple of
times a year and gets up well before dawn and climbs one of the mountains each
morning to take sunrise photos of the landscape. We thought about making an
early start in the morning and heading out to climb one of these beauties but
decided that we really didn’t have the right footwear to climb. Cycling shoes
really weren’t going to be much help and SanuKs, well they really weren’t going
to give us much protection. Another time for sure, you could easily spend a
good week in this area with all the different walks on offer.
30/6/16
STIRLING RANGES TO PORONGURUP
A beautiful clear morning, with the sun slowly rising and
trying to warm us up as we packed up camp over a couple of coffees and toast.
Our route today would take us South through the park and
started with the usual morning warm up climb, that went up and up. But what a
stunning ride, birdlife and kangaroos galore, the hills don’t seem nearly as
hard when surrounded by such natural beauty.
We stopped near the top of the climb to try getting some
photos when Bill pulled up in his car to give us his morning report. No good
photos today, the sky was too clear.
Pushing on we soon came across a flock of about 12 Carnaby’s
Cockatoos eating nuts from the Marri trees. What a wonderful photo opportunity,
they just sat there in the trees, letting us snap away, not caring in the least
that we were there. We later photographed another flock and then when nearly
down to the Porongurup turn off we spotted a small flock of seven “Red Tailed
Black Cockatoos” that put on a similar performance for us. What a lucky day.
We turned off for the final 8ks to Porongurup and went
straight into quite a punishing climb. But once again the beauty of this area
was astounding. It reminded us of Tasmania, heavily wooded with amazing granite
outcrops.
We arrived at the meticulously groomed camp/caravan park to
be confronted by a closed sign and the owner, Freddie on the roof of the
amenities block trying to fix the hot water system. Oh Oh. Freddie insisted
that they were closed, no hot water. Negotiations began, we couldn’t make the
distance to the next town and no camping was allowed in the National Park. Once
he and his lovely wife understood that we were happy to camp without hot water
available, they decided it would be ok for us to camp and went very much out of
their way to accommodate us. And I have to say, that this is one of the nicest
formal camping places we have stayed, beautiful green lawn to camp on, great
amenities, a spectacular back drop and very friendly hosts, who love to help
out any way they can. Awesome. And after dinner, we got a hot shower J
1/7/16
PORONGURUP TO ALBANY
Yesterday Freddy asked us which way we were going to ride
back to the main road. He mentioned that the scenic route, through the national
park and around the Porongurup’s was spectacular. Mentioning that is was a
little up and down for a bit then was all flat we thought this would be a
lovely ride back to the road. It was beautiful to be in the park back on a dirt
road until……..wow huge hill, no huge mountain to climb. I bailed about a third
of the way up and pushed my beast to the top. Dave climbed nearly 2/3’s of it
before nearly dying. It was over 18%, how cool was this climb and how
challenging. Boy I would hate to see what Freddy regards as a big hill. That was
mountain number one, they kept coming one after another but not quite as steep
so we were quite willing and able to climb the rest. Sweating on the ups and
chilling on the downs it really did feel like Tour De Whatever. Thought of Ash
on each climb and imagined him attacking all those long climbs in France a few
days ago. He did so well climbing thousands of metres every day. Today we
climbed 590m+ over 70k’s most of it being in the first 20km’s. BONJOUR BONJOUR
Once back on the main road we got into a really good rhythm
and rode the next 35km’s into Albany. Albany is a city, one of the four biggest
cities in WA. Full of cars, trucks, traffic lights, shopping centres, big
shops, little shops, people everywhere….it has been quite awhile. We followed
our senses and found a good café, one with the best coffee and the best food. Actually
we were standing on the footpath looking a bit lost and a lovely lady came up
to us and asked if we were looking for somewhere. I very quickly said “good
coffee”. “Just over there dear” she said pointing to a café called ‘Fredericks’.
Great choice and great suggestion.
After our recharge it was back on the bikes and a ride
around the bay out to Little Grove where we were staying with Andrew and Sandrea
who we met last weekend. It was a really lovely ride around the bay, so pretty
and on a really good bike/walking path. We turned up Andrew and Sandrea’s
driveway and met Andrew in his shed at the bottom of the property. With a lovely
welcome we then pushed the bikes up the very steep driveway up to their house. Wow
what an amazing, beautiful view of Albany. You could see right around the bay
and right out to the low rise, sprawling city with hills behind and the
Porongurup’s in the far distance. Sandrea welcomed us into their home and made
us feel very much at home. Such a beautiful home that they have been very busy
renovating, with lots of glass and open space with a very large covered deck right
across the front of the house taking in all of the view. Just magical.
We had the great pleasure of dining out with Andrew and
Sandrea and two of their friends at a local steak house that had very good
food. We had a very enjoyable evening with great food and lovely company. On
the way home Sandrea had a great idea to go up to the Anzac Memorial on top of
the hill. It was such an amazing sight to see a large sculpture of the ‘Light
Horse’ and long flight of steps leading up to the memorial, all lit up at night
time. 
2/7/16
ALBANY REST DAY 1
On our rest day, Sandrea dropped us into the centre of
Albany on her way back to the farm as we needed to do a couple of bike shops.. I
had destroyed my two pairs of short nicks in the last two weeks. One
specialized and the other NZO undershorts, proved not to be up to the task of
long distance touring. Luckily I had a pair of long Sugoi nicks that are very
comfortable and I could wear them the last two days, although a bit too warm
for me. I had been dreaming of finding some high quality Sugois or the like for
a few days now. Well, no such luck, but, as far as service and advice goes,
Passmore Cycles is definitely the pick of the bike shops in Albany, and they
sorted me out with some Bontrager Nicks, while not top of the range, they
should make it until I can get something better sent out to Perth for me.
We were in the middle of one of the most perfect sunny
winter days you could imagine. After the mandatory coffee we decided to check
out the visitor centre, which is the trail head for the MundaBiddi Trail. Not
much to see there, so we headed up to check out the National Anzac Centre which
was opened to mark the 100 years of the world war one fleets gathering, and
setting sail to Gallipoli from Albany. It was a very sobering experience, but
the thing that really blew me away was a sculpture of a LightHorseman watering
his horse from his hat, it told an amazing story. I detest war and the weak
leadership that leads to it, but honour those who serve and feel very poorly
for our treatment of animals such as horses who were forced to endure terrible
experiences for no good reason to them.
We then headed back to the main street for a re-supply ready
for the trail and to pick up some dinner to share with Andrew.
3/7/16
ALBANY REST DAY 2
We knew the weather was going to turn today, and turn it
did. Lots of rain, quite cold, but we needed a day to catch up on photos, blog
and bike maintenance. We would like to thank Andrew and Sandrea for their great
hospitality the last couple of days, which allowed us the time to rest and re-organise
ourselves, ready for the Munda Biddi. Many thanks guys.
