24/8/17 – 25/8/17
Vikasa Yoga Retreat on Ko Samui
The next few mornings saw us rise at dawn for a swim in the
infinity pool, watching the sunrise. The view was mesmerising, the warmth of the
water allowed for total relaxation as we hung over the edge watching the morning
sun appear. This time of day was so quiet with no one else around, except us and
a few little squirrels playing in the tree tops. Perfect way to commence our
day.
7am was a 2 hour Complete Yoga Class which included
meditation, breathing techniques, strength yoga and relaxation. The strength
yoga sequences were intense and boy were we sweating but feeling ever so good
for it. They were great classes with a different teacher each morning allowing
for variety. The yoga sala was a large area with wide timber floor boards,
three open sides allowing for a good flow of fresh air, a view of the sea, perfect for morning yoga practice to be facing the rising sun. The back wall
with EXHALE written boldly on it upside down of course, so you could read those
encouraging words while in a forward bend pose, a painting of an elephants face
which gave me strength to complete the class. Our teachers were amazing, giving
easy to hard variations for every pose and one teacher walking around the floor ,who with a gentle touch guided you into a deeper connection of the pose. We
were always reminded that this was our own personal practice and that you take
your practice to your own limits. I loved this reminder as it’s not about
keeping up with everyone else, it’s about what you have on the day to give. Both
of us for so many reasons have fallen out of our yoga practice. These few days
here at Vikasa was an opportunity for us to rekindle our love for the practice.
After our morning yoga practice it was a big climb up the
140 steps to breakfast. Our legs were feeling like jelly after our 2 hours of
yoga and then to do that climb, it hurt just a bit. But it was worth every
step with the breakfast that was laid on for us. It was a large vegetarian
buffet that was full of amazing fresh and organic food. Bircher muesli,
homemade yoghurt, fresh fruits, homemade bread, 4 hot dishes that were
different every morning, pancakes, salads, fresh juice, coffee, tea, I actually
felt I was in heaven.
The remainder of our days were spent swimming, relaxing
around the pool, exploring the beach, boulder climbing, listening to music and
just chilling out. 4pm came around pretty quickly so it was off to the yoga
sala once more for one and a half hours of Yin Yoga. After doing our first Yin
Yoga class I realised how much I loved this practice. When we are out on the bikes
we draw on a lot of yang energy and with this yin yoga practice we both felt
the importance of gentle stretching and letting go. It is so calming, peaceful,
healing and allows the body to regain good energy. We both felt amazing after
the first class and couldn’t wait until tomorrows class.
Our dinners up at the restaurant were vegetarian buffet
style, and as with breakfast was beautiful real food with amazing flavors and
great variety. Delicious vegetable dishes, curries, salads, so much variety and
yumminess. At 8pm we ventured down to the yoga sala for our final class for the
day. One night it was a Gong Meditation. The sound and the energy from the
gongs went right through your body as you sat in meditation pose. It is a really
deep healing vibration and was performed from the heart of our teacher. Our
last night’s sound class was singing bowls and this was a great class too. The
group sat in a circle with Ronnie Vee, our teacher who had such a laid back and
honest way of connecting with people. We have always loved the vibration and
energy that singing bowls create and this class was no exception. It was
focussed on the chakras, each bowl had a connecting sound and vibration for
each of our chakras that helped to open, cleanse and heal each one. Yep, we felt
pretty balanced and uplifted after this class. We really loved Ronnie’s way of
communicating and his love and passion for life.
Our time at Vikasa was a very healing and spiritual time. It
grounded us both and opened up many areas that we can build on to allow our
growth as energy beings to become more peaceful, loving and caring.
26 & 27/8/17
Ko Samui to Ko Pha Ngan
We planned to catch the ferry to Ko Phangan today. A 1pm
ferry from the ‘Big Buddha’ terminal.
But first it was a 7am meditation class with our new friend
Ronnie Vee. This was pretty cool, and certainly what I needed. Mary kicked on
with the full yoga class after that, while I went for a last swim and got our
gear ready to go.
Luckily the resort had a baggage pick up service so we didn’t
have to lug the bags up the endless steps to road level. So we walked up and
enjoyed a leisurely final breakfast before extracting Larry and Priscilla from
their hiding place behind the Resort’s Spirit House.
We didn’t want to go, but we had to, so much still to see on
this amazing adventure. Sometimes though, you find a cool place with cool
people and you get attached, but ‘ya gotta move on man’ ‘a rolling fat bike
gathers no moss’, so ride we must, to the Big Buddha and beyond.
It was only about ten k’s to the ferry terminal, but two big
hills early on had us sweating, then a few back lanes through the seedier parts
of Ko Samui and we popped out right at the terminal. Good navigation.
The ferry terminal was an interesting cross section of
travelling humanity. This is just a
passenger ferry, but they would take our bikes, no worries, for a bit extra. So
we sat back and watched the goings on. I became convinced that there was a “Who
Can Wear The Shortest Denim Cut Off Shorts’ competition on. Mary didn’t notice,
but let’s just say that the average fella, just didn’t have anywhere to look
without getting himself in trouble. Luckily it was time to board, and once we
made sure that the bikes made it on safely, we got my official no seasickness
spot and relaxed. (Top deck, outside in the fresh air, looking at the horizon).
Arriving, Ko Phangan gave a good impression, it was
obviously going to be a much more chilled out place than Ko Samui.
We had a ten km ride to our accommodation which gave us a good
introduction to the island, a few hills, a great coffee bar with a cool guy who
roasts his own (best in Thailand so far) and lots of restaurants and yogi hang
outs.
Unfortunately, we chose the most uptight place to stay on
the island. Don’t get me wrong, it was nice, and friendly, but just something
wrong about it. It was owned by a Belgian family with a great Belgian Beer Bar,
which was nice, if you wanted to pay 250 baht for a beer when the Thai average
is 50. Still, it was attracting a lot of Belgian and French travellers, a taste
of home I suppose.
We had a day off here, but the weather wasn’t great for the
beach and really, we were just biding our time to go to Ko Tau, we were very
excited about our dive course. We found some nice places to eat, candlelight
dinners on the beach and a really nice vegetarian yogi place for breaky. We
would definitely stay on Phangan again, but just not at the place we stayed.
28/8/17
Ko Pha Ngan to Ko Tao
We seem to be timing things around Ferry Timetables all of a
sudden, so we didn’t need to leave early. We walked up the street and had a
nice breakfast at a really cool café called the art café.
After that we were keen to get going, but we did stop on the
way at the same espresso bar that we found on the way over, truly great coffee.
Once we had bought our ferry tickets to Ko Tau, we had to
wait two hours, so we walked the street for a while in the main part of town,
some would call it shopping, but we didn’t buy anything really.
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| Larry and Priscilla Huddling Together On The Deck |
At times it felt like the ferry was going to blow right over
in the cross wind. But two hours later, we arrived at Ko Tau and hid in a café
until the storm blew out, which didn’t take very long. It was only two k’s to
the dive school that we had booked into over at Chalok Bay.
We were greeted by Maria, and she set us up with our home
work (WTF) and got us to our room right above the café.
We really just got settled, hit the restaurant for dinner
and then got some reading done before our first class in the morning, we
certainly aren’t used to studying.
Ko Tau was impressing us and would come to be our favorite
of the three islands, very chilled out, great dive culture, yes, very
westernised unfortunately, but a good break for us, as well as giving us
confidence in the professionalism of the “New Heaven” dive school.
29/8/17 to 31/8/17
Open Water Diving on Ko Tao
We woke up feeling very excited for our first day of
learning how to dive. We sat down in the cafe next to the dive school and had a
lovely breakfast before our theory class which started at 9am. Jessica our
teacher was amazing and made us feel very welcome and at ease straight away.
Alex was a diver too, who was sitting in on our classes and helping out as she
was in the middle of doing her Dive Master’s
Certification. We did about an hour or so on theory and then it was time to get
in the boat and be taken out to our first dive spot, a shallow calm bay to
learn and practice new skills. We were only down at about 3m in a clear sandy
spot where we could kneel down and practice lots of different skills. This
session was quite a long dive of 85 minutes. This time allowed us to really get comfortable being under the water. We were picked up by a small boat
that then took us to a bigger boat that then took us back to shore to the dive
school.We were so hungry when we got off the boat that we went straight to the café and had a late lunch. Jessica gave us our homework and we headed off to our room. With homework done early and dinner eaten, we crashed out pretty early. Dave was so tired, he said he felt just like a little boy that had been to the beach all day long!!

The next day started off the same as yesterday with a yummy breakfast at the café, followed by a theory session and then it was straight out on the big boat with the big league, the girls and guys who were already certified divers. They all made us feel very welcome and gave us great encouragement. We had two dives today, one at a dive site called 3 Rocks and the second dive at White Rock. The first dive was at 8m and was a 45 minute dive which included more skills practice and a dive around looking at the fish.
We saw Butterfly Fish, Orange Banded Coral Fish, Longfin Banner, Blue Spotted Stingray, Titan Trigger Fish and lots of Parrot Fish. We resurfaced and climbed up onto the boat and had a drink, a snack and a relax before commencing our second dive. This dive took us to 12m and was a 42 minute dive.
With no skills required to be practiced on this dive we just went for a beautiful cruise around under water again looking at all the fishes. We saw a lot of the same fishes as our first dive plus a few other types of fish this time including Blue Ringed Angel Fish, Anemone Fish, Squirrel Fish and Indian Sea Star. It was a great dive and we both felt relaxed and confident being under the water. We ended up having a snack when we got back and then a very early dinner, did our last lot of homework and fell asleep early again.
Our third and final day of diving had us start with a written
test. Oh crap!! Well it was all ok, multiple choice and we flew through it and
passed. Yippee all the theory now done and all the skills completed left us
only with one more task to do and that was an 18 metre dive. How exciting. Our first
dive for the day was going to be our 18 metre and that took us out to a dive site
called South West. We were meant to be going out to another dive site but this
plan had to change, as the Princess of Thailand was diving there that day and no
other divers were allowed. Well that was ok the guys had a back up plan and
that was fine with us. The dive was 36 minutes and was really beautiful.It wasn’t hard or scary to go down to 18m, slowly and steadily made for a really fun dive. We saw a few Giant Groupers and Golden Trevally as well as a lot of the same from the previous dives. One of the girls that we met on the boat going to this dive site, Kyara was a ‘Freediver’ and she came down to meet us when we were on this dive. She looked so majestic, so free and so elegant, just like a mermaid and as she left us to resurface, she blew us a kiss and the whole scene just felt so magical. When we resurfaced, we met up in the water with the other divers from our boat and had to bob around in the water for a short bit while waiting for our boat to return from dropping off others at another site. That was all ok. It was very relaxing just bobbing around in the warm deep blue water. Everyone was having a fun and relaxing time and even a few songs broke out. Then it was back on the boat for a rest and a boat trip to Shark Island to do our final dive. Here we went to 15m and was a 38 minute dive. I was struggling to keep up with the normal pace as I only had short finned flippers on and there was a bit of a current to start with. Alex grabbed my arm and I was then able to motor along a bit quicker. This was a really interesting and enjoyable dive. When we resurfaced we had to swim to the boat which took a bit of effort due to the current. Now we are ‘Certified Open Water Divers’ which we both feel is a great achievement. We are now all skilled up for more adventures which can now take us under the deep blue sea.
We really enjoyed our short time on Ko Tao and would jump
back on this island at the drop of a hat. It is a really beautiful place and
very chilled out. We loved all of the people from the Dive School and the dive
community are all so friendly, chilled out and very supportive and encouraging.
It was a fantastic experience and we are really excited about going diving
again soon.
1/9/17
Ko Tao to Chumphon
It was going to be sad to say goodbye to Ko Tau, new friends
and our new experiences. We are glad we took this new adventure on and can’t
wait to see how an occasional diving trip will work into our travels.
But leave we must, so we had our last brekky and rode the
two k’s to the ferry port. This was a straight forward affair until the ferry
boss saw the size of our bikes and made as if we were going to have to
disassemble them. Much pointing and drama was required before he/she just said
‘five hundred each’ and stormed off in a huff. That’s what we had already
arranged with the non dramatic second in charge lady.
It turned out that there was heaps of room on the rear deck
and they just rolled the bikes on and leaned them against the rail before stacking
heaps of other stuff around them, no problem. The ferry was a fast cat and the
weather was fine and very smooth seas, we saw a lot of flying fish skittering
out of the way of the ferry.
One thing we didn’t know was which ferry port we were going
to arrive at, just Chumphon, which has several terminals. After docking in a
beautiful bay, we programmed our destination into google maps and found that we
actually had a twenty five km ride ahead of us.
We got moving quickly as the heat was really building up.
But I must say that this was a really pleasant ride, the road was smooth and
quiet, and rolled through really picturesque country, we enjoyed every minute
of it. We had covered about twenty k’s of it before the convoy of mega buses
with all the tourists from the ferry whizzed past us, bikes rule hey. And then
there was a café Amazon, score.
The hotel was just in the back blocks of Chumphon, which
turned out to be a great choice, and we made good use of the pool in the heat
of the late afternoon.
We met a lovely
couple from Argentina who were cycle touring in the opposite direction with
their nearly four year old son, so we had dinner together and shared some great
stories, which capped off a great day and helped us to get over the feeling of
missing Ko Tau.
2/9/17
Chumphon to Paifha Beach Resort
A 7am breakfast saw us up and away in good time, we really
weren’t too sure how far we wanted to go today, so we hadn’t booked anything
and had a couple of places picked out along the route depending on how we felt
as the day progressed. We were still feeling a bit wonky from all our time out
on the water. Luckily this feeling wasn’t an issue while riding, just when we
sat still. There is no way either of us could look at the laptop screen in
order to catch up with the blog.
The riding was nice, and once out of the town we came across
a very nice road with a very well marked bike track up either side of it. This
road was called the The Royal Coast Road. Very nice indeed.
About thirty five k’s in, we came out onto the southern end
of a nice beach and right in front of us was an espresso bar, so we stopped,
had a coffee and decided that we didn’t want to go any further today. There
were a couple of cheap resorts about a km up the road and assuming they had a
room, that would do us. Pretty soft I know, but it was just one of those days.
After another great coffee, we rode a kilometre up the road
and stopped in front of the second resort, Paifha Beach Resort. We couldn’t
pick one, so a lovely lady came out and convinced us that we were staying at
hers and that was that, fair enough, turn the aircon on.
We wandered over to the restaurant that was right on the
beach for some lunch and cold drinks. Here we were invited to go for a boat
road over to the island that sat right in front of our view and to snorkel if
we would like to at no charge. The owner of the resort organised a boat to come
pick us and her kids up and take us all out to the island. We had to wait
awhile for the boat to arrive so they went and got their jet ski and we had fun
with the kids and the toys until the boat arrived.
The snorkelling gear for the 5 of us was placed in the boat
along with an eski full of cold drinks. It was just a short trip to the island
where there was just one small sandy beach which was used to anchor the boat, and for us all to climb onto the beach. With snorkelling gear on, it was
straight in the water for a look around. Two of the kids were teenagers with
the third about 12 years old and they were ok for us to leave them and do our
own thing. They just showed us the buoys in the water to use as markers and not
to go past them so that seemed pretty easy. The water was clear, lots of rocks
with a variety of small fish of all types and colours. A little further out
from the shore we could see a few larger fish and some coral. We had a great time just
cruising along the surface and we didn’t go out as far as the markers, as the water
clarity became a bit too murky further out so we were happy to stay closer to
the shore.We snorkelled as far around the beach as we could ,just before the shore line turned into great big boulders and decided that was far enough and made a slow return back to the starting point. It was a lot slower coming back due to a current but not a problem at all.
When we arrived back onto the beach the boat driver who had
been watching the kids as he sat on the shore must have lost sight of them at
some stage and came running over to us saying “where the babies”? Ok pretty
sure here he was meaning the kids and the last sighting we had of them, they
were heading out around the great big boulders. He was really worried so ran
along the beach, over the rocks but couldn’t see them anywhere.
We could see him talking to someone on his phone which must have been another boat as they came in closer to the island and soon after waved and pointed, indicating that the kids were just around the corner. Our boat driver came back not looking so worried and we just sat waiting for the kids to appear. It seemed to be taking a long time so we were all about to get on our boat and go pick the kids up when they came into view. They weren’t making much headway, and there was a lot of splashing with their kicking and not much movement. It was pretty obvious that they had just swum into the current and were getting very tired. As our driver and his helper spoke no English, we couldn’t communicate that we needed to get our boat out there and pick them up, but we all had the same idea as we all just headed to the boat and went and picked the kids up. They were all ok, just a bit tired and looking very sheepish. A few words in Thai were spoken, probably a discussion of what should we tell mum when we got back. Well that all went out the window, because as soon as the youngest one saw her mum we are pretty sure she blabbed out the whole story.
We could see him talking to someone on his phone which must have been another boat as they came in closer to the island and soon after waved and pointed, indicating that the kids were just around the corner. Our boat driver came back not looking so worried and we just sat waiting for the kids to appear. It seemed to be taking a long time so we were all about to get on our boat and go pick the kids up when they came into view. They weren’t making much headway, and there was a lot of splashing with their kicking and not much movement. It was pretty obvious that they had just swum into the current and were getting very tired. As our driver and his helper spoke no English, we couldn’t communicate that we needed to get our boat out there and pick them up, but we all had the same idea as we all just headed to the boat and went and picked the kids up. They were all ok, just a bit tired and looking very sheepish. A few words in Thai were spoken, probably a discussion of what should we tell mum when we got back. Well that all went out the window, because as soon as the youngest one saw her mum we are pretty sure she blabbed out the whole story.
We were so well looked after here, and had such a great
afternoon and were very thankful for everything they did for us to make our
stay so enjoyable. We had a lovely dinner in the restaurant to finish off our
day and crashed out pretty early after all that fun in the sun.
3/9/17
Paifha Beach Resort to Bang Saphan
We got “The Full American” for breakfast. It was pretty
nice, and it was cool to receive Father’s Day wishes from all the family.
The ride started off with a gentle cruise up the ‘Royal
Coast Road’ right alongside the beach. After a while we had no choice but to re-join
Highway 4 and put some k’s in on the fast bitumen, coffee was found a couple of
times before we turned off toward the beach once again, to find our quiet
little homestay, right on the beach.
There was no-one in attendance, so we just crashed into the
restaurant next door and had nice cool drinks and a light lunch while we
waited, no stress. Chilled out is definitely the order of the day.
Later when we wondered back over to the homestay/resort, the
owner Tam, was quite worried as we had left the bikes there, and he thought we
had disappeared on the beach. He showed us to an incredible room, and we
immediately wished that we were spending more time here. We had made some dates
for next week though, so that meant keep moving.
Mary made friends with a little street dog that took quite a
liking to us. A very friendly and young brown dog, who must have had some Thai
Ridge Back in her as she had a black tongue. This dog ended up spending all
night on our verandah guarding us, pretty cute.
4/09/17
Bang Saphan to Huai Yang
In room breakfast this morning consisting of peanut butter
sandwiches and cold water. With our little dog still outside our room we had a
feeling that she may want to follow us on the bikes so we made some sandwiches
for her too. to keep her busy while we left. Bugger, that didn’t work. She started
to eat the sandwiches but as soon as she realised we were on the move, she left
the food and followed us down the road. We were both heart broken seeing her
running after us. She started to make some ground, so we had to put down the
pedal and ride away fast. Slowly she was losing ground and just stood in the
middle of the road watching us leave. We both felt like crying as it felt like
we were abandoning her.We are really careful not to fuss over the local dogs too much so that this doesn’t happen, but this girl attached herself to us. She was by our side from lunch time onwards and we hadn’t even fed her,so food wasn’t the attachment, it was our company. We did give her some of my dinner later that evening down on the beach but this really wasn’t about food she just wanted someone to love her. Oh gosh I really wanted to take her with us.
We had some nice back roads out to the next town where we
needed to make a stop at an atm and get cashed up. A coffee stop was required
along the way at our fave, Amazon Café ,which had a family of ducks all in a row.
Actually, it was life size statues of white Pekin ducks that from a distance
looked real. The rest of the ride was mostly on Highway 4, and we got to our
little hotel early and continued to nurse our sand fly bites from a few days
before.
This area is effectively a Swedish enclave, with many gated
communities with people only living in them during the Swedish winter. The place was like a ghost town at the moment, with a lot of places closed up. This meant that it was quiet though, which
suits us quite fine, as long as we can get fed and watered. We liked it here.
5/09/17
Huai Yang to Prachuap Kirri Khan
Our lovely host made us The Full American again, with
coffee, which was nice, we didn’t have far to go today, so we lingered a bit.
We then followed a lot of dirt roads and tracks today which led us into a
National Park which was awesome. We even found an area that was planted out
with gum trees, yep Australian eucalypts. Not sure which variety they were, but
there was no mistaking them. Now this would not happen in any of our National
Parks, planting out foreign trees. While looking up at the leaves and the blue
sky it gave us a warm feeling of home. No koalas up in the branches though, and
we laughed as we saw a squirrel up a gum tree.
‘Mapsme’ decided to take us on a dirt track that slowly
became quite over-grown with the prickliest bushes ever. They had really soft
foliage but horrible thorns all over, so we had to make sure we kept our
distance from them as well as not being knocked off the bikes with the overhanging
branches. Dave had to get off a couple of times and remove fallen trees off the
track so we could get through, but as we continued, the track turned into a
narrow path that then led to no path, but very high reeds. We struggled through
the reeds to a small clearing and then it became quite clear that this was the
end, as there was no way we could get through what lay ahead, not even on foot
without the bikes. So back we had to go, through all the prickles and rough
riding, but it was ok, it made us laugh and it gave us an unexpected adventure.
Back onto the bitumen road in the National Park and past the
two guards, who didn’t see us leave as they were too busy looking at their
phones. We were back onto the highway for our final k’s into the next town, Prachuap
Kirri Khan.
We didn’t manage to find a coffee shop this morning on our
short section of highway, so we were pleasantly surprised to find a nice
looking one right across the road from the very ornate Royal Monastery.
Ordering our usual Espresso and Latte, we were surprised when it came with a
very nice small glass of some sort of tea each, and a plate of yummy sliced
dragonfruit. All this for 60 baht, about $2.50.
We lingered here for a while, and cooled down under a nice
fan. But we had visions of yummy pancakes, as we were booked into a guesthouse
called “Pancake B&B”, so we headed off to investigate. When we arrived, we
were shown to our very nice room and when I asked the lady her name, she said
“Pancake, my name is Pancake”. We were crestfallen, our visions of yummy
pancake creations for lunch, flying out the gate and gone forever. We really
hope she didn’t notice our disappointment, she really was lovely and so
helpful.
After settling in, we went for a walk down to the bay. This
was very nice, a wonderful crescent bay with a headland at each end with a very
cool temple built on top. There were a few western style hotels, but mostly
original local buildings and restaurants along this strip. We came down again
later in the evening as the sun set and walked out on the pier. The bay was
about four to five kilometres long and one to two kilometres wide. We were
astounded that as dark fell, we could count the green lights of fifty two
fishing boats crammed in to this small bay. The results showed the next morning
with the fish sellers offerings as we rode past. All the squid caught was
around two to three inches long. It seems that the management strategy for the
collapsing gulf of Thailand fishery is that if you are catching less fish, you
need more boats. The End, literally.
6/09/17
Prachuap Kirri Khan to Dolphin Bay Resort
We made an early start as we had 70ish k’s to ride and
needed to get the ride done before the heat knocked us around. We said goodbye
to Pancake and she waved to us as we rode down the road out of sight. We
followed the bike track along the bay out to a main road loosely following the
coast and the railway line. There were a couple of short tracks we were able to
follow but then, maybe not quite the right one. It was fine for a bit and
then suddenly we found ourselves in a large area of fish ponds. Google maps had
us going this way this time, and kept telling us to keep going, but it was just
pond after pond after pond. So we backtracked knowing we had to go past barking
dogs again, this time having to actually ride in the middle of them all. One
large pack of very big territorial dogs came out all thinking about snapping at
Dave’s back tyre, but pulled out of that little trick just in time. They ignored
me coming up from behind until I passed them when they all started barking
again. In amongst the pack were a couple of half grown pups that got scared and
ran away. Just as we got passed them all under an old table were half a
dozen tiny puppies. Puppies, prawns and ponds all locked in behind a bamboo
gate. Thankfully the gate was easily dropped so we could make our escape to the
bitumen road in front of us.
A bit more crazy
single track happened before we popped out onto Highway four again for about
ten k’s before heading back towards the beach, and the entrance to Khao Sam Roi
Yot National Park. We had been looking forward to this part of the ride, and
the opportunity for a few side trips was there, some cave temples that
apparently were pretty special. But I have to say that this park is a major disappointment.
There are lots of industrial areas we have been through that felt more natural
than this place. The landscape is dominated by several limestone “mountains”,
ok cool, geologically it is interesting. But all the flat bits, between said
mountains, were just prawn and fish ponds as far as the eye can see. We don’t
normally whinge about these things too much, but sorry, this is no National
Park.
We rode on, we did see a nice temple in a grand valley that
was cool, as long as you didn’t look back the other way. We rode on, and upon
leaving the park, the landscape became much better, greener and looked after,
just the normal farm lands. The last few k’s into Dolphin Bay were pretty and
the bay itself is spectacular with plenty of accommodation and eating options,
but very chilled out. We had a pleasant afternoon and a very big lunch after
our seventy k’s.
On sunset, we were due for a full moon rising over the bay,
so we set out to capture a cool photo, but at the last minute, heavy cloud came
in and we saw nothing. Oh well, dinner?
7/09/17
Dolphin Bay to Hua Hin
With only 40+ k’s to do today we weren’t in any hurry and
took our time leaving. We had a lovely relaxed breakfast and then on the bikes
at around 8.30. We were able to follow the coast for a good long stretch first
thing, which was really pleasant. Once we ran out of beach road, it was a few
back roads taking us through small villages and off the main highway. Then the
last 20 k’s was along a really nice bike bath.
We reached the outer area of Hua Hin and in amongst the
heavy traffic now and ‘google maps’ took us to our accommodation. Woops wrong
place, it didn’t look like the place we had booked but it was a German Bakery
with rooms above. Nobody spoke English, or German, so we rechecked our information and
woops, we were definitely at the wrong place. We booked a room at German
Bread and Co. ahhhh how silly of us. We said sorry and thank you and waved
goodbye to the poor confused ladies and sped off. Just 3 k’s down the road, we had a
turn to the left and then another turn to the left leaving the main road behind us and
entering a nice quiet street we found our rightful accommodation. Yep this time
it was exactly how it was meant to be, nice quiet place, someone who knew we
were coming, nice spacious room, just perfect.
We cleaned up, organised our washing to be taken away, sat
down to some lunch and a coffee and messaged our beautiful friend Gon, who lives
in Hua Hin and organised to meet her. We knew she worked close to our
accommodation, but didn’t realise she was only 5 minutes walk away and with a
blink she was there. With big welcome hugs we sat down and didn’t stop talking
for ages. We had actually ridden past Gon and she had seen us, but by the time she
got to the road to yell out to us we were way down the road.
Gon was able to take the afternoon off work, so we decided to
go for a lovely walk down to the beach. It was a really lovely beach, not very many
people there, lots of ponies available for horse riding. They looked ok
but were all being ridden by men who were all too big for most of them. They
were the owners and rode them up and down the beach all day long until a
customer showed interest. The poor buggers all looked tired by the end of the
afternoon. We went for a really decent walk along the beach and stopped for a
nice cool drink before our long return back, we didn’t realise how far we had
walked until we went to walk back.
That evening Gon showed us around the night market and the
streets of Hua Hin. So many options for dinner. So finally we decided on a
restaurant that sat out on the end of a pier. What a lovely place sitting
outside in the clean fresh air right on the edge of the pier ,with water
splashing underneath us. Our meals were delicious, and we had a nice walk back
through the streets to our hotel, which made for a wonderful end to a great day seeing
our friend Gon again.
8/9/17
Rest Day in Hua Hin
We actually had a
sleep in, well 8am anyway. We had a nice simple included breakfast at the
homestay before meeting Gon at 9:30. She had arranged a friend with a taxi to
take us for a day tour, which started with a trip up to the lookout over Hua Hin,
then we were back in the back of the taxi truck and barrelling down the highway
south.Gon said that we were going to a cave with a temple in it where the sun comes in from the opening in the roof of the cave. It then dawned on us, that we knew where she meant. We had ridden past here two days earlier, but hadn’t gone in as it was a punishing walk in and it was quite a big riding day. We were very pleased we were going to visit this cave, as we were disappointed that we had missed this, cool.
It took a solid hour to get to the park entrance from Hua
Hin, the heat of the day was building too. We paid the entrance fee and grabbed
a bottle of water, passing up the opportunity for a boat ride to the half way
point. Harden up.
It was a tough walk, lots of steps, and what concerned us
most, lots of sweat, and we had just had our clothes laundered for the first
time in weeks, bugger. Oh well, back to rinsing them out in the shower.
Finally we arrived at the cave entrance, it was a bit cooler
inside. There are three main chambers, the first has some interesting
formations, but the second two have collapsed roofs. Probably about sixty to
seventy metres deep from the surface, around midday brilliant light pours into
the caverns, illuminating some cool plants growing from the cave floor. We
thought they looked like giant terrariums. But on the mound created by the
collapsed roof in the third cavern, Phra Nakhon Cave stands a very cute, but
small, Pagoda. This was creating an interesting but challenging photo
opportunity, I hope they came out all right.
We spent some good time in here, and then faced the walk
back, luckily the national park office had icecreams and cool drinks on the
beach half way back.
We visited a couple of other sites on the way back,
including a park with massive statues of the more prominent Kings from Thai
history.
A shower was in order, so we freshened up and then met to go
out for dinner again down at the pier. There was a wonderful, cool breeze,
sitting at our table right on the end of the pier, so we ate some good food and
chatted for quite a while, as we knew that we were going to have to say goodbye
when we got back to the hotel. We meandered back through the streets and yes,
we said our goodbyes to Gon, with lots of promises for more visits. We sure
hope so.








