K2K, Bali, Week 2
18-01-17
We farewelled the wonderful people at Kirana Homestay,
especially Potu, who is just lovely and a wonderful asset to this place. It
seems there is nothing she doesn’t know. So we saddled up and headed out of the
laneway, turning left at the now huge puddle/lake on the main road. It was a
nice morning’s ride, initially some small hills. As the road was following the
North Coast of Bali, you get the usual creek and river crossings, as well as
the occasional headland to get up and over.
As the morning went on, the going got flatter and easier. We
stopped under the shade of a nice cool tree for a short rest and a drink of
water. An elderly Balinese man crossed
the road to meet us, he explained that he didn’t speak much English (that’s ok,
we speak no Indonesian) but he still wanted to try to communicate with us and
learn about our story. He was a really nice guy and so friendly. Despite the
language barrier, we were soon having lots of laughs together. We find that if
we are patient and willing to take the time, all sorts of people want to know
us, yes, some want to sell us something, but we understand that. Most just want
to make sure that we are ok and that we know the way to our next destination.
Balinese people are fantastic, we just love them.
We arrived at the village of Tejakuling, with instructions
to turn right down a little laneway towards the beach about two kilometres
away. This laneway quickly became only one bike wide and turned around this
little warung, Warung Seni, that was just tiny, but looked so cool just nestled
in its own little jungle setting. It didn’t look open, so we decided to find
our homestay and come back later to check it out. We wandered on down the lane,
a lady on a motorbike was coming the opposite way to show us the way in. We
were there early, it was only 12 noon, how she knew we were on our way down the
lane I don’t know. Some kind of bush telegraph perhaps? When we book, we do let
the hosts know that we are travelling by bicycle, so maybe word gets out as
people see us go by.
It was lucky she did come out to meet us, as we never would
have found the place, down a little track through a banana plantation. There
was a little confusion over which room was ours, but once sorted out, we had a
quick shower and headed for the beach. This was a nice setting, the beach a bit
rocky and narrow, but a beautiful coast line, if you could try hard to not see
the rubbish. Not the worst we had seen.
We had a fresh juice at a beach bar at the resort next door.
We sat and enjoyed the breeze off the South China Sea for a while. As we sat
here enjoying our cool drinks we noticed something quite large in the water
about 80m out from the shore. It was a large dolphin, rising to the surface,
taking a breath and then slowly submersing again. From the size, shape and colour
we were pretty sure it was a False Killer Whale. How lucky were we to have
spotted him slowly cruising by. The food here was a bit expensive at the resort
bar, so we were just deciding to walk up and see if the little warung was open
when we got a message from our host that she had just gone past it, and it was
open, so we headed that way.
Another really nice guy, Ngurah runs this place, he has an
art shop there, with his own work, as well as his brother who does really cool
wood carving. He also does all the cooking in the tiniest kitchen you have ever
seen. His food is amazing. We just wanted something light as it was by now, mid
afternoon, and we really wanted to enjoy dinner here. So he recommended sharing
his fresh vegetable spring rolls, which were amazing and presented very well.
Later that evening, we went back and despite being in Bali,
it would seem that Ngurah’s specialty is his pizza. He has no oven. He just
does them in a pan. So we ordered a vegetable pizza to share and a cold drink.
Now we have had some good pizzas in our time, but this completely blew us away.
It was so good, so much flavour, but also very fresh. The base is made with
rice flour believe it or not, but it works.
We wandered back to our room through the dark jungle,
dodging toads and other unseen wildlife.
19-01-17
We couldn’t help but have breakfast at our favourite little
warrung on the way out in the morning. We dithered, we dallied, we had another
coffee. We talked at length with Ngurah’s German partner, Julia. Finally, we
had to leave. It wasn’t a big day ahead, only about forty ks, but the longer we
leave it, the hotter, and possibly wetter it would get. So we dragged ourselves
away and hit the road.
Despite the shorter distance, we knew the traffic would be
heavy later as we had to go through Singaraja, the North Coast’s largest city.
It was pretty hectic, but ok. We kept having this guy in a blue minivan trying
to stop us and get us to pay for a ride. He initially drove past and called out
to us, “Where you going?” I’m not sure how he expected us to communicate with
the pedalling, noise and smoke of his van and the traffic, but we kept going. A
bit later he was on the side of the road, just around a corner waiting to
ambush us. We didn’t want to be rude, but there was nowhere we could pull over.
So we just yelled out Lovina, and that we didn’t need a ride thank you, and
kept going. He passed us again, pointing at the sky, “Big Rain Coming, you want
taxi?”. No thank you. Keep riding.
We were now, right in the heart of Singaraja, the road
twists and turns a bit, but we were now experts at Balinese roundabouts and we
flowed through with the slow moving traffic without any problems, to the
blaring sounds of Azan, the Muslim call to prayer. Then, just around a
roundabout, parked in the middle of the Singaraja main street traffic, was Mr
Blue Fucking Mini Van Guy again. “Taxi Sir? Where You Going?” FFS, “No Thank You, we have bikes.” He must
have finally got the message as that was the last we saw of him.
Google maps wasn’t our friend today and gave us a few bum
steers looking for our stay at Lovina Beach. But once again a friendly lady
helped us to find the right street (Jalan). Sartaya 2 homestay was nice, they
were doing lots of work there. The room was large and air-conditioned, but
somehow not quite right. It was comfortable, no problems there, but it sort of
felt like we were sleeping in an empty swimming pool with a roof on.
We wandered down to the beach. Lovina’s specialty is Dolphin
tours, so there was a lot of pressure on the streets from people trying to sell
tours. It was a bit over the top. We had a nice lunch in a little Warrung,
where Mary finally got a nice fresh Avocado salad, something she had been
craving.
The owner was horrified at the thought that we wanted to
bring our bikes to the room and said that she guaranteed that they would be
safe in the motorbike park. I think she had someone guard them all night. They
were fine, but of course I didn’t sleep well worrying.
Over all, we didn’t like Lovina Beach much. It’s one of
those things that is hard to explain why, “It’s just the vibe of it.”
20-01-17
We got ourselves organised early, had an early breakfast and
headed off on the bikes just before 8am. It wasn’t a really long ride today but
we did want to take a small detour and visit the Buddhist Moastery/Temple,
Brahmavihara Arama along the way. The riding was quite easy and flat, as we
followed the coast until we got to our short detour.
Of course, according to our limited experience, most
Buddhist temples are built in high places, this one was built up on top of a
large hill overlooking the coast. The road went straight up with an easy grade
at first then slowly but surely getting steeper as we climbed. Then a nasty
little pinch right at the top saw me pushing Priscilla up. Soaked to the skin
in sweat as there was no breeze. When we reached the car park to the temple we
were greeted by a lovely young guy, who was most helpful and organised sarongs
for us and explained where to go. There was a lot of interest in our bikes and
our adventure here, so it was nice to chat for a while and get our sweating
under control before we put our sarongs on to head inside.
This temple is built over several levels, high on a ridge
overlooking the North Bali Coast. It is a very open design, with lots of small
buildings with interesting artworks, culminating at the top level with an
orange Pagoda on one side and a volcanic stone Stupa on the other. It was a
great experience. We always ask each other afterwards why it is that we both
connect so much more with Buddhist places than others. Interesting.
For every good climb, there is a great descent. This one had
us whipping through small laneways, past Warungs and small shops, and it was
like having the air-conditioning on full blast, it was so cool.
Back to the main road, we put in some solid k’s and with
about fifteen to go, we were getting hungry and in need of a cool drink. We
were struggling to find somewhere attractive, so in the end we just stopped at
a dingy warung and tried to get across that we needed one vegetarian lunch and
two cold soft drinks. We didn’t do too bad, but the nice lady brought out two
massive lunches, a bit like a Nasi Campur, that we tried to struggle through.
Some parts were a bit spicy, which wasn’t to Mary’s taste, but there was plenty
for her to eat regardless. The tricky part was the drinks. First, a light
coloured drink that looked a bit like fanta, this was in a recycled Corona
bottle with a new label, the other looked like a cola. Anyway, they were nice
and cold. Then, the taste test. Ummmmmm. As we couldn’t interpret the labels,
we don’t know what they were, we just nicknamed them Unleaded and High Octane
Premium, because they sure tasted like something you really shouldn’t drink.
The last ten k’s into Pemuteran is quite beautiful, with the
beach on our right and jungle clad mountains on our left, who needs the Great
Ocean Road. We rolled into town, past the monkey temple, with monkeys all
around the place, and then under an ornately carved stone arch with dragons
protecting us on both sides.
We turned up a little laneway to our left and a short way up
we found our accommodation, Adisya Homestay. Our hosts, Wayan, Iloh and their
lovely family are so great. They just couldn’t do enough for us. A nice cold
watermelon juice that was so welcome, a nice simple room and a great spot to
sit outside on the veranda overlooking the garden. We had decided that this
would be a good place to catch up on our laundry etc. and to plan our first few
days in Java, so we extended our stay.
We went for a walk to the beach. The town of Pemuteran is very clean and
tidy, and we spotted many good standard Warungs as potential places to eat
along the way. The beach had a bit of rubbish on it but didn’t look too bad. We
sat at a nice bar under a shady tree and had another cold drink while enjoying
the ocean breeze. On our walk back we saw a lovely family all washing their
dogs in the ocean. These little dogs including a young puppy were all in really
good condition and had great clean shiny coats. After their dunk and swim in
the ocean it was time for a sand rub all over and then a shampoo and back into
the water to rinse off. How great to see these dogs being so well looked after.
Wayan and Iloh had offered to cook for us that night, which
we had graciously accepted. Mary just felt like something really simple and
light and had a nice plate of fresh fruit and I had Gado Gado, which was also
very good.
21- 01-17
Day off in Pemuteran.
We both had a really good solid night sleep in our very
comfortable home away from home. We were however awoken at 4.50am with the
sound of the local Muslim Azan and its call for prayer. For some reason it was
extremely loud this morning, I suppose it is something we will have to get used
to when travelling through Muslim countries. We were able to fall back to sleep
after and didn’t wake till after 7.30am. It was nice to have a sleep in. We
enjoyed a very relaxed morning with breakfast on the veranda and then a stroll
down the main street. We came to an interesting café/bakery so popped in and
had a look. It was morning tea time and here we were able to order espresso
coffee and a croissant. We sat on a large relaxing lounge and with a nice cool
breeze blowing through the open walled café. We had a view of a large open
paddock of green grass lined with tall trees that went right down to the ocean.
Such a lovely view and cool place to chill for a while.
We thought a stroll along the beach and maybe a swim would
be next on the agenda but when we walked to the water’s edge we were horrified
with the amount of rubbish that had accumulated on the foreshore and in the
water over night. Plastic rubbish was
everywhere, all down the beach and all floating in the water. The more you
looked the more rubbish there was. It really did not look inviting for a swim,
not even a paddle. We really don’t know how you could snorkel in such terrible
water. Such a sad and heart breaking sight to see.
We wandered back to our accommodation and decided it was
time to do a decent walk and climb the large hill behind us that Wayan had
mentioned, as it was the best place to get a great view of the village. We took
a back lane that led us through a handful of small farming properties with
tethered cows and pigs and lots of chickens and newly hatched chicks all
running around. We met lots of lovely friendly people along the way all happy
to say hello, and a couple of young girls with their dear young dog jumping for
joy as he followed them along. Think he was one happy pup to be loved and who had
a caring home. The dogs here in Pemuteran didn’t seem that bad. Most were in
pretty good condition and not many showing signs of itchy skin problems which
was really good to see.
We found the narrow path that led us up the hill and as we
followed it up the steepness of the hill became quite pronounced. It was a
really good workout climbing this baby, and when we reached the flag marker we
were literally soaked to the skin with sweat. The view up there was breath
taking. So beautiful and so surreal. We could see 360 degrees all around with
the ocean, the village and the mountainous range behind us. Not only was the
sight amazing but the sound up there was incredible. We had climbed the hill on
a day where there was a ceremony in progress in the Hindu Temple that sat
neatly on the side of the next hill. We noticed beautifully dressed men and
women following a concrete path all the way up to the temple. We decided that
we would take the time and follow as well, but thought that we would stop
outside the temple as we were not wearing appropriate clothing. Once we got
closer an elderly man invited us up into the temple and said it was ok for us
to enter and stay. We quietly walked inside the open roofed building and sat on
the floor and watched part of the ceremony. With lots of beautiful music
playing and six young people sitting in front receiving offerings of rice on
their foreheads and hair, and all receiving a blessing with holy water. As we
looked around we noticed two very skinny dogs, one went and hid but the other
just hung around having a little bark at Dave on and off. She was looking very
poorly, a lactating bitch with four of her puppies spread around in the shade
all sleeping peacefully. She obviously is a good mum feeding these puppies as
they all looked well, but it certainly was taking everything out of her.
We quietly stood up and started to walk down the stairs,
this time following the concrete path all the way down to the bottom of the
hill that then led to the main road. We walked along the main road heading back
into the village and back to our accommodation.
Later, heading out for dinner, we stopped to look at the menu
at Warung Ganesh. It looked nice, but westernised. A young lady came out to
explain to us that they were just opening up an area out the front called “The
Canteen”. This was a local food place at local prices, a very limited menu, but
we were welcome to try it out, which we decided we would. We were their first
customers, ever, and I think they were a bit worried that we wouldn’t like the
real Bali food. They made a nice vegetable soup with rice for me, that we
couldn’t remember the name of. Dave had a Nasi Kucing, which is rice and
noodles with a spicy sambal and a small amount of protein that can vary. In
this case it was octopus, all wrapped up in a banana leaf.
The staff were all waiting around to see if it was too hot
for Dave, ready for a good laugh, but he really enjoyed it. All in all, it was
great, two meals, two beers for Dave and a soft drink for me was only 69000
IRP, about seven aussie dollars. Wow such great value and so much fun.
22-01-17
Day off in Pemuteran.
Today we went for a walk up to the Eastern end of the beach,
we planned to make it to the monkey temple that we had seen on the way into
town. By the time we got to the end of
the beach we were so disheartened by the amount of rubbish in the water and on
the beach, we decided to not go any further. The monkeys were on the beach,
picking over the rubbish for scraps. The rubbish is all household rubbish,
mostly single use plastics. Shopping bags, drinking straws, yoghurt containers,
tooth brushes, you name it, it was there. We have noticed while riding around
Bali, that many people dump their rubbish, sometimes by the truck load, into
creeks and rivers. Then, as soon as it rains, out it goes, into the ocean, some
of it gets washed back up onto the beaches. Where the rest goes, well we’ll
just have to imagine it. We love Bali,
and we love the Balinese people. But this problem has real potential to turn
Bali into “Paradise Lost” if the problem can’t be managed. People will, and are
starting to not come here because of it. We are not on our High Western Horses
here, we acknowledge that we have our environmental problems in Australia too.
This is a disaster.
We had heard stories of the monkeys in Bali jumping on you
and stealing your belongings but these monkeys all seemed to mind their own
business and were just too busy sorting through the rubbish and running away
with fallen coconuts, that they really didn’t care too much about us walking
past. Well behaved monkeys in this part of Bali. We walked along the main road
back to our accommodation where Illuh made us fresh coffee and delicious fried
banana. I crashed out early without any dinner, where Dave ventured out and
grabbed a strange bag of chips and a beer. We really enjoyed our stay in
Pemuteran, as we found the village to be very friendly, the streets and gardens
to be clean and tidy and we had lots of fun here.
24-01-17
Pemuteran to Banyuwangi
Today we rode our last leg of Bali, to the ferry port where
we caught the ferry to Java. It was a sad feeling leaving Bali as we loved our
time here, loved the people, the food and the coffee. We enjoyed our morning
breakfast of banana pancake, fresh fruit and coffee, and then said our fond
good byes to Iluh, unfortunately we were unable to say goodbye to Wayan as he
had already left for the day. The ride to the ferry was really good with the
last 20km’s being amazing as we rode through quiet farming villages and the
National Park that sat on our right hand side. It felt so peaceful riding along
through this farming area and a much needed ride through nature.
We thought that once we hit Gilimanuk it would become busy,
but it was really quiet on the roadside all the way to the ferry port. To catch
the ferry was a piece of cake. We just followed the motorbikes into a queue and
lined up and bought our 7000 IRP ticket each and rode our bikes onto the ferry.
Java was so close, and the ferry ride only took about 20 minutes plus about 20
minutes waiting for a berth and then we just rode our bikes off and here we
were in Java.
We had about 11km’s to ride to get to our next homestay Didu’s
Homestay in Banyuwangi. Here we found ourselves on a very busy road with lots
of motorbikes, cars and trucks, who were very aware of us cycling and never
gave us a problem as they overtook us. We were getting close to our homestay
and starting to feel really hungry when we saw a sign ‘Country Café, so we
stopped for a bite to eat. Everything on the menu was ‘jamur’ meaning mushroom.
You could have steak jamur, satay jamur, fried jamur, hot and spicy jamur, so
many choices of jamur and they also had fries. We ordered a serve of fries (oh
yummy) and a serve of satay jamur. The fries were so welcoming and the satay
jamur was really amazing, covered in a delicious peanut sauce. As we ate our
lunch, down came the rain. The guys in the café let us bring our bikes inside
the café so they didn’t get wet. And here we sat, finished our lunch and it was
still raining. With another serve of fries eaten, it again was still raining.
We sat for over an hour waiting for the rain to stop but there was no sign of
it stopping. Finally, it lightened off, so we decided to make a break for it.
We thought we would be fine riding in the light rain without
our jackets on, as our homestay was only a couple of k’s down the road. How wrong
we were, the rain got heavy once again and we were soaked in minutes. The rain
wasn’t cold so we just continued on our way riding through puddles, past fast
flowing creeks and over raging river bridges. Poor old google maps got a little
confused and told us to turn right instead of left and literally led us down a
garden path. This turned into a very wet and muddy path. We came to a home on
the right and asked a dear old man for directions. He didn’t understand English,
so he went and got his wife. She didn’t understand English but did invite us to
stand out of the rain under their shelter. Their grandson then appeared and he
ran inside and grabbed his mum. We were then all standing under the shelter
laughing. Dave got out the name of our homestay and showed them and they all
nodded and knew where it was. The young grandson who was only about 6 or 7
grabbed an umbrella and showed us the way. The poor little kid had to walk
through all the puddles and the mud on the track, looking back at us all the
time pushing our bikes just to make sure we were still following. Our homestay
was only 50m away from the point of our wrong turn. We thanked the sweet boy so
very much and he so very kindly waited at the driveway until we were seen by
our hosts.
We received a grand welcome from Maya, Djoko and their staff
who were very friendly, and showed us to our timber hut. It was really quaint,
lots of airflow, outdoor bathroom and two single beds with mossie nets over
them. This made us feel like old people, haha, oh well. The whole set up was
fantastic though. They had a communal kitchen, where you could make a coffee,
or have a cold drink on an honesty system. Also an amazing communal lounge
area, which was an excellent place to chill out. We decided that we would use
these guys to arrange our Ijen Crater trek for that night, which would give us
a full day and night to recover afterwards. The rain was still coming down, so
luckily, they had an order in service, so we arranged an early dinner, before
trying to get some sleep before having to get up at midnight for our trek.
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